A great panning shot, with the moving object in clear focus and the background blurred just right, convinces you that a still photograph is in motion. Consistently capturing superior panning shots takes time and practice, but it’s definitely a skill worth working on for any amateur photographer with a DSLR camera. Your results may be hit-or-miss at first, but your “hit” photographs will be fantastic!
[Edit]Steps
[Edit]Camera Settings
- Get a good DSLR camera to take true panning shots. A well-crafted panning shot puts the target image in extreme focus while blurring the background to create a sense of motion. The average smartphone camera or basic digital camera struggles to achieve this result. If you really want to capture great panning shots, your best bet is to invest in a high-quality digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) camera.[1]
- Unfortunately for your wallet, a good DSLR camera can easily cost $500 USD or more.
- Set your camera to shutter priority mode for maximum shutter control. Shutter speed and responsiveness are critical to getting a good panning shot, since you need the right shutter speed to “freeze” your object in motion. Shutter priority mode gives you maximum shutter control, so turn the dial on your DSLR camera to the appropriate symbol; check your camera’s product manual for guidance.[2]
- For example, on Canon DSLR cameras, the shutter priority symbol is “Tv,” while it’s “S” on Nikon DSLRs.
- Using shutter priority mode will probably result in automated settings for aperture and ISO values. Aperture controls the amount of light that reaches the camera sensor, with a lower number denoting more light and a higher number equating to more light. Increasing the ISO setting can also aid in brightness, but a higher ISO value results in more graininess (or “noise”) in your captured image. Both aperture and ISO are less essential than shutter speed when taking panning shots, but you can refer to your camera guide if you want options for fine-tuning these settings as well.
- Start at a slower shutter speed and adjust it faster based on your results. Finding the right shutter speed is definitely a trial-and-error process. Start at a slower speed, in the 1/4 - 1/15 second range, and see how your first few photos turn out.[3] Increase the shutter speed as needed, with faster shutter speeds being required for faster moving objects.[4] Use the following as a general reference:
- Walking at a normal pace: 1/2 - 1/4 sec.
- Runner or average cyclist: 1/4 - 1/15 sec.
- Fast cyclist or car in street traffic: 1/15 - 1/30 sec.
- Racing car: 1/60 - 1/125 sec.[5]
- Turn off any image stabilization setting unless it has advanced features. While image stabilization is a great feature when you’re holding the camera still, it will typically try to “correct” the camera movement that’s essential to panning shots. Use image stabilization only if your camera has an advanced type that recognizes and doesn’t interfere with panning shots.[6]
- Use your product manual to learn about your camera’s image stabilization feature and how to turn it off.
- Use autofocus for simplicity when you’re new to taking panning shots. Many action photography pros prefer manual focus for panning shots, but autofocus is the easier option when you’re less experienced. Using your camera’s autofocus setting requires less active effort on your part, since the camera continuously refocuses on the target object. That said, autofocus usually adjusts more slowly than is possible with manual focus, so you’re sacrificing greater control for greater ease of use.[7]
- Advance to manual focus, if desired, once your skills improve. There’s no rule that says you have to switch from autofocus to manual focus as you get more experience taking panning shots, but it’s probably worth a try. As opposed to autofocus, manual focus requires you to estimate and pre-sight the focal point for the object, which can be a definite challenge for a novice. If you get it right, though, manual focus is more responsive and—at least in skilled hands—more likely to capture a clear image.[8]
- Utilize burst/continuous mode to improve your chances of a great shot. Without burst mode, also called continuous mode, you’ll get one chance to capture a great photo each time your target passes by. With burst mode, which takes numerous photos in rapid succession, you’ll often get 10 or more chances for a perfect pic each time you press the shutter button.[9]
- Most modern DSLR cameras have burst mode. Check your product guide for details.
- The only real downside to burst mode? You’ll end up with a lot of out-of-focus shots to delete!
- Switch lenses, if needed, based on your positioning and photo preferences. Follow the specific instructions for your camera, but expect something similar to the following: hold down the lens release button throughout the entire process; turn the current lens clockwise to remove it; line up the dots on the camera and the new lens; turn the new lens counterclockwise until it clicks into place.[10]
- Which lens you choose depends on factors like your expected distance from the target object and how wide or narrow you want to focus in. You might, for example, switch to a wide-angle (24-35 mm) lens to capture a passing bicycle as a small image amidst a large background. Or, you might use a telephoto (70-135+ mm) lens to zoom in almost exclusively on the passing bicycle.
- Your positioning for the shot and your lens selection are a tandem deal. Decide on both at the same time.
[Edit]Positioning
- Set up safely at a distance that coordinates with your lens selection. Find a spot with a clear view that doesn’t put you in harm’s way, so that the object will pass directly in front of you. If you’re using a telephoto lens, you might set up away to get a great shot of a running herd of deer, for example, or you might use a wide angle lens and set up away from a passing bicycle to capture the city backdrop as well.[11]
- Always take your safety and the safety of those around you into account. Make sure you’re not exposed to vehicle or pedestrian traffic, for instance. Use a second person as a spotter if you’re taking pictures in a risky environment, such as at a racetrack.[12]
- Steady your camera by attaching a tripod or monopod to it. Keeping your camera steady and level is important when you're taking panning shots.[13] While pros can often free-hand their panning shots, start out by attaching your camera to a 3-leg tripod or a 1-leg monopod. Most tripods and monopods have a camera plate that screws into the threaded opening at the bottom of your camera; the plate then slides and locks into place on the tripod/monopod.[14]
- Tripods are a bit bulkier, but are probably the best choice if you’re a novice. A monopod requires more balance and support on your part.
- Once you’re comfortable taking panning shots, practice doing them without a tripod or monopod. Overall, tripods and monopods are particularly helpful when the target (like a car) follows a predictable path. Free-shooting without a tripod/monopod is useful when the target (such as an animal) is moving less predictably.[15]
- Create a solid base from your hips down so you can rotate at the waist. This is important even when you’re using a tripod or monopod. Set your legs shoulder-width apart and bend your knees slightly. Point your toes, knees, and hips straight forward so that they’ll be pointed right at your target as it passes by you. Your lower body should remain in this position throughout the panning process—all of your body movement should come from above your hips.[16]
- Some photographers find it easier to point their lower body a bit in the direction from which the moving target will approach, and still others prefer to point slightly in the direction to which the target will exit the panning area. This is really up to your personal preference and comfort level. The important thing is to keep your lower body steady and still.
- Visualize a target zone of about 60 degrees to your left and right. Imagine you’re standing in the middle of a clock face. Your lower body, then, is pointed at 12 o’clock. That means your target zone (or panning zone) should range from 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock (or 2 to 10, if the object is approaching from your right). To get a great panning shot, you’ll need to track your target object from one end of this zone to the other.[17]
- For example, say you’re trying to get a panning shot of your daughter riding her bike from your left to your right. While keeping your lower body pointed at 12 o’clock, you’ll need to turn your upper body to start tracking her at 10 o’clock, and continue to turn and track her all the way to 2 o’clock.
- Pre-sight your expected focal point if you’re using manual focus. If you’re relying on manual focus, estimate the spot where you expect your target to pass by at the 12 o’clock position. Focus your camera on that point, and maintain that focus setting as you track the target object. That way, when the object passes by you, it will (hopefully) be in perfect focus![18]
- If you’re using autofocus, don’t worry about this step. The camera will adjust its focus “on the fly.”
- Like many aspects of taking panning shots, expect to go through some trial-and-error here.
[Edit]Shooting
- Aim your camera and upper body at the starting point of your target zone. In other words, if the car you want to photograph is approaching from your right, point your upper body and the camera at the 2 o’clock position. Watch through the viewfinder and wait for the target to enter the frame.[19]
- Remember to keep your lower body still and pointed at 12 o’clock. Doing so will help you swivel the camera through the target zone smoothly.
- Press the button halfway down to autofocus on the approaching target. As the target enters your view, engage the autofocus to train in on it. If you’re using manual focus instead of autofocus, keep the shutter button pressed halfway down to maintain the focal point you already established.[20]
- If you’re using an unfamiliar camera, practice pressing on the shutter button beforehand so you know how much pressure to apply.
- Center the moving object in your frame as you track it through the target zone. Start rotating your upper body as soon as the target enters your view. Do your best to match its speed and keep it centered in the frame. If you’re using autofocus, the camera will keep adjusting as you go. If you’re using manual focus, the target should increasingly come into focus as it approaches the 12 o’clock position.[21]
- The faster your target is moving, the harder this is to master. Consider practicing on neighborhood joggers before moving up to competitive sprinters!
- Take the shot right as the target passes by you. Wait until the target is centered in the frame at the 12 o’clock position to press down fully on the shutter button. This is the ideal position to take your panning shot.[22] But don’t feel bad if you miss-time your shot the first few times—keep trying and you’ll get it![23]
- Your entire body should be aligned with the target at this point.
- Track the moving object with your camera until it exits the target zone. Don’t stop twisting your body and tracking the target after taking your shot! Just like with a golf swing, your follow-through is a critical component. Keep turning your upper body and tracking the target until it exits your panning zone—for instance, the 10 o’clock position if it’s moving from your right to your left.[24]
- If you’re using burst mode, your camera will take several shots as you continue to track the target. But even if you’re not using burst mode, following through will greatly improve your odds of getting a great panning shot. Following through helps add to the background blur effect that is key to expressing motion in a panning shot.
- If you capture a great panning shot on your first attempt, give yourself a pat on the back! But don’t be surprised or disappointed if your first few efforts don’t quite work out.
[Edit]Tips
- Taking good panning shots takes practice! Before trying to get great shots at a racetrack, practice with slower-moving targets in a low-stress environment, like walkers and joggers in your neighborhood.[25]
- The interchangeable lenses on a DSLR camera are defined primarily by their focal length (mm) and aperture (f/). The smaller the focal length number, the wider the shot you can capture; the smaller the aperture number, the less light is required to get a good shot.
[Edit]References
- ↑ http://www.carphototutorials.com/make_panning_shots_like_a_pro.html
- ↑ https://www.canon-europe.com/get-inspired/tips-and-techniques/action-panning/
- ↑ https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/tips-and-techniques/10-tips-for-better-camera-panning.html
- ↑ [v161748_b01]. 18 March 2021.
- ↑ https://www.photoblog.com/learn/panning-photography-tips/
- ↑ https://www.photoblog.com/learn/panning-photography-tips/
- ↑ https://digital-photography-school.com/6-tips-master-panning-photography/
- ↑ https://digital-photography-school.com/6-tips-master-panning-photography/
- ↑ http://www.carphototutorials.com/make_panning_shots_like_a_pro.html
- ↑ https://digital-photography-school.com/6-tips-master-panning-photography/
- ↑ https://digital-photography-school.com/6-tips-master-panning-photography/
- ↑ https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/tips-and-techniques/10-tips-for-better-camera-panning.html
- ↑ [v161748_b01]. 18 March 2021.
- ↑ https://digital-photography-school.com/6-tips-master-panning-photography/
- ↑ https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/tips-and-techniques/10-tips-for-better-camera-panning.html
- ↑ https://www.photoblog.com/learn/panning-photography-tips/
- ↑ https://digital-photography-school.com/6-tips-master-panning-photography/
- ↑ https://www.photoblog.com/learn/panning-photography-tips/
- ↑ https://digital-photography-school.com/6-tips-master-panning-photography/
- ↑ http://www.carphototutorials.com/make_panning_shots_like_a_pro.html
- ↑ https://www.canon-europe.com/get-inspired/tips-and-techniques/action-panning/
- ↑ [v161748_b01]. 18 March 2021.
- ↑ http://www.carphototutorials.com/make_panning_shots_like_a_pro.html
- ↑ https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/tips-and-techniques/10-tips-for-better-camera-panning.html
- ↑ https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/tips-and-techniques/10-tips-for-better-camera-panning.html
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