Pet & Animal: How to Paint Ceramic

Painting ceramic items is a fun and inexpensive way to refresh old home décor or create a personalized gift or centerpiece. Read these steps to learn all you need to know about painting ceramic in your own home.

Steps

Painting Ceramic Dishes

Pick your paint. Depending on how you plan to use your ceramic, there are a few slightly different approaches to picking paint, each of which will yield a different result in terms of appearance, durability, and usability.
- Using regular paint (such as acrylic) plus an acrylic clear coat will produce highly glossy dishes that are pretty to look at, but not safe to eat off of.
- Using a no-bake ceramic paint pen will allow easy, quick designs on dishes that are safe to eat and drink from, but which won't last with sustained regular use.
- Using bake-on ceramic paint will produce fairly glossy patterns that are safe to eat and drink from, and that in most cases should last for years.

Choose a brush or pen. Once you've decided on your paint approach, acquire a brush suitable for the pattern you want to paint, or consider a paint pen. A paint pen will allow you to “draw” the paint on like a marker, making it great for words and line drawings, but its applications aren't as flexible overall.
- A small, pointed brush is perfect for painting flower buds and vines.
- A flat-tipped brush is ideal for geometric work such as rims and straight lines, as well as for filling in larger areas of paint. If you plan to stencil in a design, a small flat-tipped brush is also probably the best choice.

Purchase any other supplies you need. Buy clear coat for decorative dishes; pick up some painter's tape or masking tape if you want to paint straight lines or angles. A smock or apron and some disposable gloves are also useful in many cases.

Paint your dish. With your dish thorough clean and dry, apply your chosen paint to it to create whatever design you want. The specifics of this step will vary somewhat between the different types of paint, but the basics involve brushing on designs with acrylic or bake-on ceramic paint. Using a small brush, paint your design on the ceramic dish.
- To paint flower buds or leaves, use a pointed brush. Apply a tiny blob of paint to the dish where the base of the bud or leaf will be, and then drag and lift the brush in the direction of the tip of the bud or leaf. The tip will be created wherever you pull the brush away from the plate.
- To paint straight lines across a plate or bowl, tape off the area on either side of where you want each line to be with painter's tape. (Use a ruler to ensure that the gap between the tape strips is evenly spaced.) Paint between the tape lines with bold strokes using a flat-tipped brush, then gently remove the tape to leave a clean line.
- For an unusual motif reminiscent of the De Stijl art movement of the early 20th century, try blocking off rectangular sections with criss-crossed lines of painter's tape, and then filling in the sections with different colors of paint. Leave one or two sections unpainted for an eye-popping geometrical effect.
- Know that acrylic paint can be reapplied after the first coat has dried to make it even brighter. This step isn't usually necessary for ceramic paint.

Draw or write with a no-bake ceramic paint pen, if necessary. These pens are available at many art and craft supply stores, as well as online. They're relatively mess-free, making them ideal for children's parties and other open group activity settings.
- Draw, write, or doodle just as you would with a colored marker. The paint will dry quickly once applied. If a pen seems not to be writing, hold it with the point angled down and gently shake it for a moment.
- Try drawing a background or part of a picture in one color, letting it dry for a moment, and then adding the next layer in a different color to build a bright, fun image.
- Be sure to add a signature on the bottom of the dish so that everyone knows it's your creation.

Keep breathing. Be sure to paint in an open and well-ventilated area for safety, especially when using acrylic paint. Fumes can be unpleasant and aggravate any existing conditions, such as allergies, that you may have.

Sand your way to success. For dishes that seem too glossy to take paint, consider gently sanding them with an ultra-fine grit sandpaper, such as 1800 or 2000 grit. Don't apply much pressure, and try to sand evenly.
- This works because the sandpaper creates microabrasions in the glaze of the dish, allowing paint to stick more easily.
- Don't make the finish visibly rough or jagged. A gentle sanding is more than enough.

Gloss over acrylic paint. If you chose to paint a decorative dish with acrylic, let it dry thoroughly, and then apply clear acrylic topcoat to it. Let one layer dry, and then add a second to be sure it's completely sealed.
- This dish will look very shiny and nice, but is not safe for food or drinks. Instead, display it on a shelf or give it is a gift. Be sure to tell the recipient not to use it for eating or drinking.

Bake any ceramic paint. If you chose to paint a dish with special ceramic paint, find an out-of-the-way place to let it dry for at least 24 hours. Once it's dried completely, bake it in a preheated oven according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Always yield to the manufacturer's instructions. If they tell you to bake it earlier than this guide, do so.
- This dish will have a pleasantly glossy finish, and be safe to eat and drink off of. If you chose a high-end ceramic paint that's dishwasher-safe, you can even run it in the dishwasher! The design should remain there for many years to come.
  - As with any painted dish, consider hand washing it even if you can technically use the dishwasher. Hand washing is much gentler, and ensures the longest life for your dish.

Use your no-bake ceramic paint dish. If you chose to use no-bake ceramic paint pens to decorate your dish, it's ready to use as soon as the paint dries. No other steps are needed.
- Your dish will be safe to eat off of, but this paint will scratch and chip over time from contact with utensils, teeth, and other hard edges. It's definitely not dishwasher-safe.

Painting a Ceramic Lamp

Gather your paint and other supplies. To repaint an old ceramic lamp (or other decorative ceramic fixture), you'll be taking four basic steps: sanding, priming, painting, and finishing. To paint a ceramic lamp, spraypaint is the most sensible choice. Many people recommend Krylon-brand spraypaint for its bold color and durability, but other brands are usable as well. In any case, purchase the following supplies for your project:
- A face mask (surgical mask) and plastic safety goggles
- Electrical tape
- 1800-grit or a similar ultra-fine grit sandpaper
- A sanding block to mount the sandpaper
- Paper towels and old newspaper
- A general-purpose spray primer in a neutral color such as dark gray
- Semi-gloss or glossy spraypaint in the color of your choice
- Clear gloss spray sealer

Sand your lamp. Unless you're painting a totally unfinished ceramic lamp, the first major step will be to sand its surfaces so that they'll take your primer more readily. To prevent dust from getting into your mouth and nose, wear a face mask before you sand.
- Remove the lampshade. Remove any other parts of the lamp you can set aside and don't plan to paint. (If there's still a light bulb in the lamp, remove that, too.)
- Sand it down. Attach your sandpaper to the sanding block, and sand the entire lamp using gentle, even pressure and smooth strokes.
- Don't over-sand the lamp. It shouldn't be rough or irregular to the touch. The sanding step is only to give the primer a better surface to bind to.

Clean up. Once you've finished, wipe down the lamp with damp paper towels and/or a gentle cleaning agent. Be thorough to ensure you've cleaned all of the sanding dust off the lamp, as well as any other remaining impurities.

Prime your lamp. Once the sanded lamp is clean and dry, it's time to apply primer. Move your project outside or to an open garage or workshop, if you haven't already. Put on safety goggles and a fresh face mask. You'll be working with spraypaint, which can get into your mucous membranes from the air and irritate them.
- Prep your lamp. Set it on a bed of newspaper that's much wider than the base of the lamp, for easy cleanup. Use electrical tape to firmly seal off any part of the cord or screw base that might otherwise get paint on it, including under the base.
- Apply the first coat of primer. Spray it on uniformly and steadily, all around the lamp. Once it's been applied, let it dry for at least 3 or 4 minutes. There's no need to wait more than 10 minutes at most before moving to the next step.
- Apply the second coat of primer. Once the first coat is set, repeat the process to add a second coat of primer. This will help ensure a smooth, uniform base for your spraypaint, and should completely obscure any previous colors and patterns on the original lamp as well.

Put on the first coat of paint. Give the primer between 30 minutes and an hour to set somewhat, and then bust out the paint. You'll be applying multiple coats for a great-looking finish.
- Apply the first coat of paint. Using even movements, apply a thin coat of spraypaint over the primed lamp. Chances are, the primer will still be affecting the color somewhat; this is ordinary. Don't over-spray your first coat. You'll get a much brighter and smoother finish by using multiple thin coats.

Wait for the first coat to dry. Advice varies on how dry you should let the first coat get before it's okay to apply the next coat, but the average consensus seems to be between half an hour and 2 hours. This guide recommends waiting 1 hour between coats.
- Spraypaint actually takes about a day to set completely, but there's no need to wait that long between coats.

Apply the second and third coats of paint, if necessary. Repeat the pattern described above to apply at least 2 more coats of spraypaint. Be sure to keep each coat thin.

Put gloss or sealant on your lamp. Once the last coat of paint has dried enough to take another coat, switch to your sealant and spray it on. For a professional-looking finish, choose a clear, glossy finish such as Krylon No-Scent Glossy.
- As with painting, once the first thin coat has dried, add a second coat to maximize the glossy look.
- Once you're satisfied, protect the lamp from the elements and leave it to dry overnight. Don't touch the lamp during this time if you can help it.

Finish up. The next morning, remove the electrical tape from the lamp and bring it inside. Add a bulb and a shade to complete your lamp.
- Don't feel bound to use the shade that originally came with the lamp. Look at department and thrift stores to find one that suits you.

Painting Ceramic Tile

Know your limits. Ceramic tile of the type found in kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms, can certainly be painted, but the process is more involved than painting a hobby item like a plate or a lamp base. Additionally, there are practical limits to what can be painted, and how long you can expect your paint job to last.
- Lay out a plan beforehand. When you paint home tile, you'll be decommissioning whatever area of the house you're painting for a while. Plan ahead to avoid awkward bathroom and kitchen situations.
- Paint somewhere sensible. High-traffic areas, and tiles that are constantly subjected to moisture, are not generally considered good candidates for home repainting. At best, expert advice on the subject is ambivalent. Choose to repaint less-trafficked areas of tile, or accept that your project may not last as long as you'd like it to.

Gather your supplies. Painting or repainting ceramic tiles in your home requires considerably more patience and preparation than the other ceramic painting methods described here, but it should go steadily as long as you have the tools you need. Collect the following items:
- Fine grit sandpaper, such as 220 or 240 grit
- An electric sander, preferably an orbital sander
- Heavy rubber gloves, eye protection, and a face mask
- Abrasive tile cleaner, such as Comet, Ajax (powder), or Bon Ami
- Bleach to destroy mildew and other mold
- High-adhesion primer designed for glossy surfaces
- High-quality acrylic or epoxy paint
- Clear urethane or epoxy top coat finish
- A large paintbrush and/or paint roller
- Rags and a vacuum cleaner for cleanup

Clean and sand the tile. The first step to repainting your tile is be sure it's ready for new paint. Be sure to wear a face mask and safety goggles for this step, to avoid getting dust in your eyes or respiratory system. If you're worried that 220 grit sandpaper will sand too quickly or too deeply for you to apply it evenly, you can use a finer grit. Just remember that the process is likely to take longer as the grit number goes up.
- Start with your abrasive tile cleaner. Thoroughly scrub the area you plan to repaint, and wipe it down until it's clean and dry.
- Disinfect. Using a fresh rag, make a bleach solution and scrub through the tiles a second time to kill mold.
- Sand down the area. Affix your sandpaper to the orbital sander and sand your tiles down carefully. Your goal is to remove any extra gloss remaining above the ceramic itself, without damaging the ceramic.

Prime the tile. As with painting a lamp, your exposed ceramic tile will need to be primed. Paint the primer on evenly with a brush.
- Choose the right primer. Apply an oil-based primer to ensure better water protection.
- Apply two coats, then finish. Once the first coat has dried a little, apply a second coat of primer over it. Give it time to dry thoroughly (a few hours), then sand it with ultra-fine grit sandpaper, such as 1500 or 2000 grit, to remove any bumps or ridges in the coat.

Choose your paint. Now that your tile is primed and dry, it's time to add paint. Choose the best paint possible. There are three basic options available:
- Epoxy paint is glossy, highly durable and long-lasting, but also more expensive than most other kinds of paint.
- Acrylic paint isn't as durable for high-traffic areas as epoxy, but is easier to work with and cheaper.
- Latex paint provides a soft-looking, “rubbery” finish that some people prefer, but it's the least durable of the three.

Paint the paint on evenly using a paintbrush. A flat-tipped brush with a fairly wide tip is best. Start with a thin coat, let it dry, and then add a second coat. You'll get brighter and smoother results than a thick one-coat job.
- Refer to thinning instructions on your paint can to learn how to thin it properly, if thinning is required.
- To paint a geometric pattern, tape shapes together out of blue painter's tape before you begin, and then use a laser level and a ruler to properly place them evenly throughout your work area. Remove the tape after you're finished (but before you apply a clear coat) to reveal sharp lines and shapes.

Finish the tile. Wait 2-3 days for the paint to dry completely. Once the paint has dried, it's time to apply a clear finish and seal it in. Apply two coats of finish. Wait long enough between coats for the first coat to become dry to the touch. Choose between urethane and epoxy finish. Both have advantages:
- Urethane finish is cheaper, quicker to apply, and easier to work with. However, it doesn't hold up in high-traffic areas for as long as epoxy.
- Epoxy finish is hard, glossy, and essentially permanent, making it the better choice for areas with a lot of foot traffic or areas that get wet regularly. However, it is more expensive and takes more care to apply properly.

Clean up your mess. Throw away any paper you set out. Vacuum up any remaining dust or detritus. Clean and store your supplies. Let the finish dry fully. Again, 2-3 days is recommended.

Video

Tips

When painting details, start by painting the background parts first, letting them dry, and then painting details on top of them with a fine brush.

Remember to use nontoxic paint for items that will come in contact with food. Most ceramic paints are nontoxic, but check the label to be sure.

Warnings

Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area, or ventilate the area you're working in as best you can. Dust, mold, and fumes all represent potential threats to your respiratory health.