How to Take Care of a Chameleon

So you want to care for a chameleon? Chameleons make excellent pets, but you will need to set things up for them to be happy and healthy. Find out what kind you should get and the requirements for caring for one.

EditSteps

EditChoosing the Right Chameleon

1. Make sure that you actually want one. They are very fragile creatures that you need to understand before caring for one. Also, chameleons are reptiles that do not really like to be held so if you like a pet you can hold this might not be the right pet.
   • Chameleons are very easily stressed. They need a serene environment. They do not do well with loud music or frat parties. They do not interact well with any other pets. Do not force them to interact with dogs/cats/ferrets, etc.
2. Pick the species of chameleon you want to get. Easier species to take care of are Veiled, Jackson's, or Panther Chameleons. Most chameleons on sale are about 3-8 weeks old.
   
   • Chameleons can have very distinctive personalities. Some like people, some don't. If you want to know, watch the chameleon being fed in the pet store before buying.
3. Think about who can take care of your chameleon during vacations or a period of time when you are unable to take care of it. You'll want to think of someone who's good with animals while you're away. An attentive person who knows a little about reptiles would be best.
   
4. Ask questions about your chameleon from whoever you are buying it from. The salesperson will have information and will help you.

EditSetting Up

1. Set up and maintain the cage (also called the reptarium). Juvenile chameleons can grow quite a bit, so make sure you have enough space for a cool creature perhaps twice the size of the one you bought!
   
   • Keep the tank away from cold windows when it's winter outside.
2. Bring the chameleon home and put into a tall glass cage with mesh ventilation.
3. Put in the cage things to make your new pet comfortable, perhaps some real plants and fake plants, climbing limbs, and proper lighting and moisture.

EditCaring for the Chameleon

1. Feed your chameleon. The most common purchased food for chameleons is crickets. You can buy them at your local pet store. If there is no local pet store then you can always purchase them online or by phone. Avoid feeding your chameleon bees and wasps.
   
   • Baby chameleons need a smaller breed of crickets. They also like and can survive off of fruit flies.
   • You may see the term "gut loaded" crickets. That simply means the crickets have been fed a nutritious diet, which helps get lizards the nutrients they need. You may also see they are "calcium dusted," which helps the chameleon get its calcium.
   • Chameleon also enjoy types of insects like wax worms, meal worms, super worms, flies, moths, and grasshoppers.
   • In addition to store bought bugs, you can give the chameleon bugs, spiders, moths from your house or garden. A mixed diet is good. If your chameleon eats the bugs from your neighbor's garden, the neighbor may be impressed.
2. Give your chameleon water. There are different ways to do it. If you see your chameleon licking shiny objects, that is because he is thirsty and looking for dew to lick.
   
   • Spray the leaves or side of the tank with a spray bottle for the chameleon to lick.
   • You can buy a waterfall at a pet store. These cost a bit but are nice/pretty.
   • Some people have taught their chameleons to drink from a bottle. See if you can train your chameleon to act a bit like a dog!
3. Make sure the chameleon gets enough heat. First, buy a thermometer to go inside the cage. Next, put a heat lamp at the top of the reptarium. That way, the chameleon can come up and bask in the heat if he or she wants, but come down if it is too hot. A basking spot created by a simple 60 watt household bulb works well, too (but you will still need a full spectrum light, because a household bulb does not provide UV). The basking spot should be about 85-90 degrees F (29-33 degrees C).
   
   • Chameleons like it colder at night, but in any normal house that is not going to be a problem.
   • Get good quality full spectrum UVA/UVB light. Be sure it is a regular light bulb, not a compact fluorescent. It helps to produce Vitamin D for absorbing calcium.
   • Time outside basking in the sun is another way for your chameleon to get Vitamin D.
   • The floor of the enclosure should have some material that helps maintain humidity. Shredded coconut husks work well.
4. Make sure the chameleon enclosure is at the right humidity level. Buy a low cost humidity meter (hygrometer.) If the humidity is below 50%, adjust the misting or water system to keep the chameleon comfortable. Humidity can be too high as well; over 80% on a constant basis can lead to mold and fungus growth.
   
   • Use a drip system, bought from any pet store or online. The best ones have a timer.
   • Spray or mist your chameleon. You can use a spray bottle from any store. Spray the water on the leaves in your enclosure. This helps humidity and enables them to drink as well. Make sure the water is warm, but not hot.
   • Buy a pressure sprayer if you like. Get them at your local hardware store. It lets you spray a very fine mist.
   • Buy an automatic misting system, but they cost a lot and can be hard to set up.
   • Manually give your chameleon water by using oral syringe or rodent bottle. Use a syringe without a needle from a local pharmacy. Drop the water straight into your chameleons mouth. The chameleon may or may not be thirsty, so if at first you don't succeed, try again.
5. Interact with your chameleon. Interacting with your chameleon isn't needed, but can be a lot of fun. Each chameleon has its own personality, and some like being handled more than others. Feeding your chameleon by hand is a good way to interact so it won't be as aggressive toward you. You may also find the chameleon likes to be taken outside to bask in the sun.
   
   • Know how to do it safely, without losing your self-camouflaging pet.
   • Taking your chameleon outside is another way to get the UVA/UVB that a healthy chameleon needs. Not only do they love basking in the sun, it keeps them healthy!
6. Keep your enclosure clean. Remove any dead things at the bottom or else parasites and bacteria will come. Remove the chameleon from the enclosure so it won't be disturbed.
   
   • Create a cleaning solution using water and a bit of dish soap. Spray on the walls, floors, and anything like fake plants, not the real plants. Use a paper towel to clean and dry off. Mist your enclosure and, again, dry off with a clean paper towel.
   • Alternatively, use something naturally disinfecting like vinegar and baking soda. Use hot water and rinse well.
   • Change the material on the floor frequently to remove dead bugs, shed skin, fecal matter, mold or fungus, etc.
   • Clean the enclosure daily or every other day.
7. If your chameleon is female, look for signs of her getting ready to have eggs. (The technical term is "becoming gravid.")
   
   • They can start getting eggs around 4-6 months, and can lay up to 3 clutches of eggs a year.
   • Read up separately about how to take care of a pregnant chameleon. They need a place to dig and lay their eggs.
8. Establish a relationship with a vet who handles reptiles. Don't get stuck and not know where to go with a sick reptile.
9. Document a process for a backup individual to help with care if you're out of town.

EditTips

• Chameleons change color when cold and/or stressed and/or sick.
• Note that chameleons are solitary. They don't like other chameleons. Introducing another chameleon into its vivarium is not the best idea. Only when chameleons are babies do they feel comfortable with other chameleons. Once becoming a year old, they should be separated. Sometimes even younger.
• An aquarium is acceptable for a young chameleon, but you may want to buy a reptarium for better air circulation. A 4 month old chameleon may need a bigger enclosure.
• If your chameleon seems to be choking on insects, give them smaller ones instead.
• Chameleons have amazing camouflage- try not to lose your new pet in its cage!
• Put some fake vines in your enclosure.
• Feed your insects well with potatoes, cabbage, carrots, fish flake, low fat kitten chow, bee pollen, and potato flakes. Feed your insects well so you can feed your chameleon well.
• Some chameleons like to have a pool to drink or bath from.
• You can use Reptovite to coat superworms/crickets prior to feeding.

EditWarnings

• Don't force your chameleon out of the cage or anything else. It may anger it.
• Don't touch the chameleon's back. This can also anger it.
• Make sure the spray bottle you are using wasn't used already like from a hair product. This can be fatal to your pet. Buy a new one from any store and clean it out.
• Wild insects may have pesticides.
• Larger winged insects are harder to digest for a chameleon.
• Recommended not to get a female. They must lay eggs in proper conditions, digging under earth, and if not, will die.
• Too much water can cause problems for your chameleon.
• Wild chameleons are harder to take care of and may have parasites or diseases.
• Avoid using screw in lights. If you don't use full spectrum lights your chameleon might get Metabolic Bone Disease.

EditThings You'll Need

• A Chameleon
• A vivarium (cage or enclosure, tall and narrow base for climbing). Since juvenile chameleons can grow, a lot, make sure you have one big enough for your species.
• A thermometer and hygrometer
• Supply of water and food
• Basking and UV lights
• If needed, a misting/humidity control system (usually)
• A spray bottle
• Fake plants and/or real plants, branches for climbing
• Materials for the floor of the enclosure.

EditRelated wikiHows

• Feed a Chameleon
• Buy a Chameleon
• Care for Gerbils
• Be a Good Dog Owner
• Care for a Hibernating Turtle
• Care for a Hibernating Frog
• Care for Your Cat
• Find the Right Pet

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via Peter